Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto 'Fiumi di Parole' (Rivers of Words)

The first 20 metres and the first part of the last pitch are the same as Ratti Cavallo, for the rest of the route is completely autonomous and is carried out on an open wall.

Apuan Alps, South of Pizzo d'Uccello 'Fuori Soglia

I had been searching for a while for a free space on the south side of Pizzo d'Uccello to open a route on this side as well, but my unforgettable friends Mauro and Fabrizio had been climbing these walls far and wide for several years, occupying almost all the logical routes on the most beautiful slabs. During the various ascents as [...]

Valle di Camaiore, Casoli, 'Vista a Mare' (Sea View)

"View of the sea" Climbing up from Camaiore to Casoli following the narrow, winding road, some of the most beautiful cliffs in Tuscany parade before your eyes: Candalla Alta and Bassa, the Parete del Cimitero and, having reached the village of Trescolli, the grandiose bastionata that includes the Setriana pillars and the San Rocchino wall. Every [...]

Switzerland, Wenden

"La Svizzera",by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani On 26/05, 10/07 and 11/09 2006 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani opened "La Svizzera", Mahren, Wenden. On the leftmost, overhanging and lonely wall, the Mahren, there is now 'La Svizzera'. I didn't think there was still space available, but the line was there, beautiful and ambitious, characteristics duly required [...].

Sardinia, Punta Cucuttos, Gorropu Gorge, "Hotel Sopramonte

Hotel Sopramonte The best stories always begin by chance... in 1983 I landed in Sardinia for the first time at the end of my military service; after eighteen months of sailing I could finally devote myself to rock climbing again. Just climbing was the watchword. The Supramonte in those years was still pretty wild and [...]

Sardinia, Supramonte di Urzulei, 'Into the Wine'.

Codula di Luna, Monte Andau, Nailers: Alessandro Gogna - Roberto Vigiani Development: 275 mt. Difficulty: 7a+ Exposure: S3 Material: complete set of TotemCam For the last three pitches, 2 ropes of 60 m are necessary Descent: abseiling Download Back to the list of reports

Sardinia, Punta Giradili,
'Without Hindrance'

"Without delay" Three days with arrival by ferry on Friday morning in Olbia and return on Sunday evening also from Olbia. A grey limestone pillar with a view of the Mediterranean a clear idea in the mind of a perfect dihedral halfway up the wall. Carlino Malerba roped up with me again 25 years ago.

Sardinia, Punta Giradili, 'Partenia'.

Parthenia From a text message from Alice: 'If she is beautiful and heavenly, call her by a divine name, be courageous and baptise her as you would never have thought, bind her forever with a wish that only a few will understand but that will remain in everyone's heart as nostalgia for the "Joy".... that everyone yearns for but hardly ever possesses for [...].

Sardinia, Punta Giradili, 'Mezzogiorno di Fuoco'.

"Mezzogiorno di Fuoco" P.ta Giradili - Sardinia Rolando Larcher - Maurizio Oviglia - Roberto Vigiani Opened in June 2006 from the bottom Rotpunkt style ascent May 2007 Development: 270 metres - 8bmax/7c obligatory Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, Punta Giradili by R.Larcher, M. Oviglia and R. Vigiani Opened in June 2006 from the bottom Rotpunkt style ascent May 2007 Development: [...].

Sardinia, Punta Giradili, 'Beauty will save us'

"Beauty will save us" I want to tell a different story: not a chronicle of the usual new route, the highlights, the difficulties, the grades encountered and the free ascent. I want to tell you why I do certain things, what drives me to always seek new projects and new stimuli in my existence. Mountaineering in these [...]

Sardinia, Punta Cusidore, 'Merchants of Chiacchere'.

Punta Cusidore - SARDINIA Route 'MERCANTI di CHIACCHERE' R. Larcher, M. Oviglia, R. Vigiani Report of the new route: 7a obligatory Climb from the bottom in CLEAN style, not equipped. For the repetition needed a series of friends up to the blue Camalot and one of stoppers, webbing, lanyards and some pitons for a few belays ... HISTORY In May 2002 [...]

Sardinia, Monte Oddeu, 'A Chent'annos'.

"In Sardinian 'A Chent'annos' is a wish for a happy birthday, the equivalent of our '100 of these days'. 18 April is my daughter Eva's birthday and so, having opened her in those days, I wanted to dedicate this street to her to wish her a long and happy life. "A Chent'annos" is also the [...]

Sardinia, Codula di Luna, S'Orcu, 'Una Corona al Bacio'.

"Una Corona al bacio" We needed a comfortable, beautiful and not too long wall, the exposure had to be optimal for the season and the quality of the rock at least by Sardinian standards...that is, excellent! All seasoned with a wild location...because, let's face it, in Sardinia if you have a bit of imagination you can still combine all the features listed here [...].

Muzzerone, Bunker Pillar, 'Reservation Mandatory

Muzzerone, Pilastro del Bunker, 2009 Roberto Vigiani - Luisa Siliani - February 2009 Development: 140 m - Difficulty: 5c/6a Material required: 15 quickdraws and helmet (recommended!) Belaying: 10 mm stainless steel fixes with chains at the belays Access: as for "Chi vuol essere lieto sia " (Who wants to be happy be) descend the gully to the right of the Bunker to its end, a cairn indicates the [...].

Muzzerone, Parete Striata, 'Tramontana'

MUZZERONE - Via "TRAMONTANA" DI ROBERTO VIGIANI First ascent : Luisa Siliani - Roberto Vigiani - January 2005 Development : 180 m. + 70 m Difficulty max : 6b (6a obligatory) Material required : 12 quickdraws, lanyards to equip the belays, one set of nuts and one set of friends Report of the new route In these days of January, where [...]

Muzzerone, Parete Striata, 'Mas Y Mas'.

Mas Y Mas, (una nueva vìa pàra tus pies de gato, ed.) Parete Striata Climbed in January 2008 by: Roberto Vigiani and Luisa Siliani Development : 160 metres Difficulty max : 6c - S1/ I Difficulty obligatory : 6a Material needed : 15 quickdraws The route is fully equipped with 10 mm stainless steel fixes and stainless steel chains at the belays. [...]

Muzzerone, Striated Wall, 'Kimera'

REPORT "KIMERA" route Liguria - Muzzerone - Parete Striata Since the early 80s, climbing on the Parete Striata has been going on, and on such a busy wall with so many routes and variants it seems impossible to find an independent and logical route yet. In spite of this, there was still a virgin space left of Supernova' ... The 'Kimera' because it seems unlikely [...].

Muzzerone, 'Trident' from the Sea to the Pillar of Discord

TRIDENT - MUZZERONE (SP) by R. Vigiani, 2014 Opened from the bottom in December 2005 by Luisa Siliani and Roberto Vigiani Development 210 metres Difficulty max. 6b (5c/6a, 5c, 3c, 5c/6a, 5c, 6b) Nailing: 10mm stainless steel fixes Material needed: 16 quickdraws, 70m rope and Helmet Here we are, exactly one year after " Tramontana " again enjoying the beautiful winter sun of [...].

Muzzerone, 'Poseidon' from the Sea to the Pillar of Discord

Muzzerone, Via Poseidon Luisa Siliani and Roberto Vigiani December 2013 Difficulty : II S1 max 6c, Development: 260mt Nailing: excellent with stainless steel fixes and chains at belays!!! Sometimes you think you know some walls perfectly and that nothing is left to be discovered: no surprises, all sold out, no possibility of opening new routes. This year it's forty years that I've been frequenting the crags [...]

Dolomites, Marmolada, Punta Penia, 'La Larcher Vigiani'.

On 12/08/2001 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani completed their project on the south-west face of the Marmolada with the Rotpunkt ascent of the entire route. The route, which takes the name "La LarcherVigiani", was opened by the two in the summer of 2000 in 4 days of climbing strictly from below and as they are accustomed ... ... without ever resorting to passages on the [...].

Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Sasso Rosso Wall, 'There is always a reason'.

In the course of life there are people who do many things and others who waste time thinking of putting them off until later - there are those who have a 'fire' inside them that burns and never stands still and those who like to laze around. One does not know who is happier but one thing [...].

Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Sasso Rosso Wall, 'There's little to laugh about'.

Appennino Tosco Emiliano, Parete di Sasso Rosso Via "C'è poco da ridere" Roberto Vigiani, Luisa Siliani - 2009 Opened from the bottom in 7 hours and "onsight" on 08/09/2009 Development: 260 metres Difficulty Max: 7a, R3 Difficulty obligatory: 6c+ Material used: - a complete set of Camalot up to 3 including micro and small tricams - [...].

Alpia Apuane, Torri di Monzone, 'TerraRossa'.

TORRI DI MONZONE: TERRAROSSA Dear fellow climbers, those who know me well know that I don't like crowded places, that the routes I open never abound in bolting, and that the crags I equip I always keep as private as possible, but in recent years (maybe I'm getting old?!) I have opened a few routes with medium difficulty [...].

Alpia Apuane, Monte Corchia, 'CorchiAmare'.

CORCHIaMARE After Apericorchia on the north-west side, ideal for the summer months, here is Corchiamare on the south-west side, ideal for the winter months. Last December, before the 'monsoons' began, I went with Marcello to repeat Gino Bonuccelli's 'Via degli Argonauti' at the Pilastro Vitelli, above Levigliani, on the south-west face of Corchia. Turning under the [...]

Alpia Apuane, Monte Cavallo, 'Lovable'.

"LOVABLE" - 2005 development 120 m. first ascent: Roberto Vigiani with Luisa Siliani, Andrea Mercatelli, Annamaria Cavallo, Guido and Guglielmo Gori who contributed, in addition to the company, to the addition of the bolts that at the opening, on my part, had been rather stingy! material needed: two 50 m ropes recommended difficulty: L1: 5c, L2: 5b, L3: 5c/6a Approx. 100 m.

Alpia Apuane, Loc. Pulcinacchia, 'www.tecchiaoli.it'.

WWW-TECCHIAIOLI.IT (by RobertoVigiani) Alpi Apuane-Carrara- località Pulcinacchia New route opened in August 2005 on the pillar above the last quarry of the Boccanaglia marble basin above Carrrara. The wall had already been explored by the Alpine Guide Claudio Ratti in the 1980s, who had opened a number of single pitch routes with companions and a long route that reached the summit [...].

Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, 'Towards the World

VERSO IL MONDO (by R. Vigiani and P. Gianfranceschi) A few years ago, after the 'unjustified' closure of the Solco D'Equi in the Apuane Alps, good and, above all, unexploited rock seemed to be in real short supply. Fortunately ... ... a group of climbers from the Lunigiana verticale mountaineering school, led by Mauro Franceschini, instead of continuing to talk [...].

Apuan Alps, Monzone Towers, 'Robespierre'.

Robespierre is a route that we finished several years ago and which, I don't know for what precise reason, remained there for a long time with the promise that sooner or later we would fix it! Piero had started it with Antonio and after two and a half pitches they had run aground where the wall began to overhang. Antonio then [...].

Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, 'Fixe&Friends'.

Fix & Friends That dihedral had been there for ages and everyone who passed by down there said 'look at that obvious line...who knows what the rock will be like? The mess is to get it, surely the rock in the white is not the best!" While Piero and I were finishing "Robespierre", from the belays I was constantly peeking at "Il dihedralrone" [...].

Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, 'Ciaociciu'.

Torri di Monzone - Ciaociciu (by R. Vigiani) Davide della Valle - Roberto Vigiani Autumn 2000- development 200 metres approx. maximum difficulty 7b+ obligatory difficulty 7b Sector: Pala dei Fiorentini Altitude: 1251 Exposure: east Rock: limestone From the road that leads to the village of Vinca, leave your car at the start of a cart track that, with a bridge [...].

Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, 'Casa Vianello'.

Torri di Monzone: Casa Vianello (by RobertoVigiani) Report , April 2003 development 250 m. first ascent: Piero Gianfranceschi (Raimondo Vianello!), Fabrizio Fratagnoli, Alfredo Gattai, Roberto Vigiani material required: 15 quickdraws -2 50 m. ropes difficulty: S1- II - max. 6c. Approach The new route is on the tower of the Cathedral (that of 'Notre dame de Monzon' [...].

Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, "Allocchio-Bacchini".

Torri di Monzone - All'occhio Bacchini (by R. Vigiani) Sector: Pala dei Fiorentini Altitude: 1251 m Exposure: east Rock: limestone From the road that leads to the village of Vinca, leave your car at the start of a cart-track that crosses the river with a plank bridge. Follow the cart track, taking care to identify a thin track [...].

Apuan Alps, Solco D'Equi, 'A Straballa Atomica'.

ALPIA APUANE, SOLCO D'EQUI, "A STRABALLA ATOMICA", 1996 difficulty: 8a / 7b obbl exposure climbing: East base climbing height (m): 800 m climb development (m): 240 difference in height approach (m): 100 departure point: Equi Terme (Fivizzano , MS ) cartography: Alpi Apuane 101-102 Ed. Multigraphic technical notes: R.Vigiani-M.Ricciotti, 1996 Approach: from Equi Terme, take a dirt road that runs along the swimming pool of the thermal baths on the right, [...].

Apuan Alps, Pizzo d'Uccello, North Face, 'Wall of Shadows'.

MURO DELLE OMBRE In 1985, Roberto Vigiani and Federico Schlatter opened this route on Pizzo d'Uccello. The first repeat came about two years later by Carlo Malerba and Cristiano Virgilio. Since then, there have been sporadic attempts until about the 4th pitch (roof of A3) Development 600 m, Difficulty ED+. The rock in the first 8 pitches [...].

Apuan Alps, Pizzo d'Uccello, Bardaiano, 'ApuaniKa'.

APUANIKA - ALPI APUANE - MONTE BARDAIANO north-east face by Roberto Vigiani 1st ascent : Davide Benacci ; Roberto Vigiani - August 2005 Development : 490 m. Difficulty max : RS5-III - 7b/7b+ Difficulty obligatory : 7b Material needed: - 1 series of friends up to the blue Camalot - 1 series of tricam (TCU) metolius - 1 series of stoppers [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto
'Low Life'

Monte Procinto, North-West Wall below the belt Via " Vita Bassa " Luisa Siliani - Roberto Vigiani - 2009 Development: 110 metres Max. difficulty: 6b+ / 6c+ Obligatory difficulty: 6a The attack is reached from the car park at the top of the dirt track by taking the direct path that passes by the squirrel hut and leads to the [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto, 'Via Vento dell'Ovest'.

Monte Procinto - Vento dell'Ovest by R. Vigiani Fix of 10 mm INOX Opened in August 2005 by Roberto Vigiani Luisa Siliani Development 90 metres (3 lengths) Difficulty: 5c/6a Material: Quickdraws and 60m rope Descent: abseiling on the route WALLS Download Back to the list of reports  

Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto, 'Robetta da Poco'.

Monte Procinto, Parete Nord, "Robetta da poco", by Roberto Vigiani, 2412 Mt 110, trad and clean style ascent Diff max: 6c Material used: nuts, fiends, hourglass lanyards There are walls that have been frequented for a very long time and so many routes have been traced on them that it seems impossible to invent something new again. [...]

Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto, 'Paperoga'.

MONTE PROCINTO, VIA PAPEROGA Roberto Vigiani, Federico Schlatter 1983 difficulty: 7b / 6b obbl exposure climbing: South development climbing (m): 160 departure location: Stazzema (Stazzema , LU ) support points: Rif. CAI Forte dei Marmi cartography: Alpi Apuane 101-102 Ed. Multigraphic technical notes: Material: 12 quickdraws, two half ropes, useful medium friend for the key pitch in the crack (7b/A0) Descent: along [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, Lorano Wall " La Baraka".

LA BARAKA La Baraka (by R. Vigiani) Difficulty L1:6b+, L2:6b+, L3:6b+, L4:6c, L5:6c, L6:6c+, L7:5c Open from the bottom, max difficulty 6c+, obbl. 6b (II/S2) Fix Inox 10mm; 15 quickdraws; 2 ropes 55m; Development 220m; Descent: on the route In the Islamic world "La Bàraka" is a word that means "Blessed by Allah" in our case it can be defined, with less devotion to the deities, "Fortuna [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, 'Lean Life

VITASNELLA According to the proverb, 'Neither from Venus nor from Mars, one neither arrives nor departs, nor does one begin art', and we, without thinking about it, started on a Tuesday this spring... on that day, an unidentified quarry vehicle gently rubbed the side of my off-road vehicle, causing a serious injury.

Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, 'Maktub'.

Alpi Apuane - Monte Pesaro MAKTUB Ascended in April 2014 Roberto Vigiani and Luisa Siliani Development : 250m (8 L) Difficulty : 7a ( 6c obligatory) - S3, R2 Material : A series of C4 to 3, a series of C3, Nuts. Half ropes of 60m for the descent, also long quickdraws. Access : [...]

Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, 'Bayonetta in Canna'.

Bayonet in the barrel Here I am... with this route I close 10 years of "work" since I opened Baraka, it seems like yesterday and yet it has gone by like a flash. I still have a project I started years ago with Davide Benacci on the far left, which I will perhaps complete in the future if my will and health assist me. Apart from the [...]

Apuan Alps, Monte Nona, "Ninth Symphony

NONA SINFONIA HISTORY It was 1998 and at that time I was still running the Forte dei Marmi refuge. One September afternoon during a work break I decided to start a new route on Monte Nona. That day I was accompanied by Marco Cardelli from Viareggio who, curious to see my methods of opening from below, [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Forato, '38 Special'.

38 SPECIAL MONTE FORATO, Roberto Vigiani, Grazia Magiani, Piero Gianfranceschi, August 1995 The attack can be identified by an old yellow arrow drawn on the wall. It is a classic-style climb opened with pitons, but over the years a few bolts have been added. The result is nevertheless an averagely safe and very satisfying climb. Although [...]

Apuan Alps, Monte Corchia, Vitelli Pillar, 'Viva la Castagna'.

Here is another route on the Vitelli Pillar on the south-west of Corchia. I started it with Marcello in the autumn, right in the chestnut season, and finished it today with Luisa on a beautiful spring day. Five pitches on the typical Corchia Marble which, as usual, required a lot of cleaning but in the end were quite interesting and [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Corchia, 'Via Apericorchia'.

Alpi Apuane Monte Corchia - Apericorchia, climbed on 05/07/2013 by Marcello Puliga and Roberto Vigiani Here is a route to do on hot summer days because it remains in the shade until late afternoon. The first pitch has probably already been climbed by someone else because we found a fairly new belay with fixes, on the second pitch we found a [...]

Apuan Alps, Monte Cavallo, 'Art and Manner'.

"ARTE E MANIERA ", 2005 development 200 m. first ascent: Roberto Vigiani with Luisa Siliani, Andrea Mercatelli, Annamaria Cavallo, Guido and Guglielmo Gori who contributed, in addition to the company, to the addition of the bolts that at the opening, on my part, had been rather stingy! material needed: two 50 m ropes recommended difficulty: L1: 4a, L2: 4b, L3: 5c, L4: 5c, L4: [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Alto, 'Via del Tubo'.

The TUBO route By now I have repeated almost all the routes on this wall and I must say that the work of the Florentines Massimo Innocenti, Francesco Mannini and co. has been fundamental to the development of this somewhat forgotten wall of the Apuan Alps. Marble is the predominant rock here, as witnessed by the numerous old quarries now [...].

Apuan Alps, Monte Campaccio, 'Philadelphia... fresh to spread!

Monte Campaccio - Apuan Alps - Massa PHILADELPHIA...fresh to spread out!New route opened from the bottom in August 2007 by Luisa Siliani and Roberto Vigiani Maximum difficulty : 6a+, Obligatory difficulty : 5c/6a Fixing with stainless steel fixes and abseil chains at the belays, , Development : 175 metres Material required: two 50m half ropes or 70m single ropes (abseils prepared except for S1, 40m), [...].

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