Alpia Apuane, Loc. Pulcinacchia, 'www.tecchiaoli.it'.

WWW-TECCHIAIOLI.COM (by RobertoVigiani)

Apuan Alps-Carrara- Pulcinacchia locality

New route opened in August 2005 on the pillar above the last quarry in the Boccanaglia marble basin above Carrrara.

The wall had already been explored by mountain guide Claudio Ratti in the 1980s, who had opened a number of bolted single pitch routes and a long route to the top of the wall with companions.

www.tecchiaioli.it is almost completely independent and follows the most beautiful slabs until just below the summit. In the first and fourth pitches, the route picks up the old Ratti route for a few metres without, however, modifying the route; the old pitons have not been removed and those who wish to redo the old route can always do so distinctly.

(cont'd)

1 Ascent : Luisa Siliani - Roberto Vigiani - August 2005

Development : 160 m.

Difficulties max. 6b+

Difficulties mandatory 5c/A0

Material 12 quickdraws, 2 x 50m ropes

Abseiling on the route, it is also possible (recommended) to abseil on the grassy base of the route by using the first fix (quick link) at the start of the route.

A route on exceptional rock with technical and satisfying climbing, bolted entirely with closely spaced stainless steel bolts to facilitate repeats. The second pitch if free climbed is clearly superior to the rest of the route but the very close bolting allows those who do not have the necessary level to climb it practically A0.

I 'discovered' the wall by chance while teaching a course for Tecchiaioli carried out by the province of Massa-Carrara . This is why the route was dedicated to this group of young people who are looking for a future job in this difficult trade.

Access : Reach the centre of Carrara and follow the signs for Miseglia.

Shortly before the village, take the one-way road on the left signposted (Pulcinacchia, Cave Boccanaglia), which goes through several tunnels and around the quarries and back to Carrara, passing just above the hamlet of Torano. When you come to the public marble weighing pits, a little before on the right a road leads to Pulcinacchia (signposted). Follow the road to where the asphalt ends and park a little before on the left in a clearing.

Continue on foot along the quarry road and bear left until the last hairpin bend before the highest quarry (Pratazzolo quarry, approx. 300m). From here, a steep road leads after about 100 m to an old abandoned quarry with a ruin and old machinery. In front of the ruin, a track with cairns follows the path of a water pipe for a stretch and then climbs directly up to the base of the evident wall via a steep grassy slope (20 minutes from the car).



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Luisa Siliani on the third pitch
Roberto Vigiani

 

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