Valle di Camaiore, Casoli, 'Vista a Mare' (Sea View)

"Sea view"

Climbing up from Camaiore to Casoli following the narrow, winding road, some of the most beautiful crags in Tuscany come into view: Candalla Alta and Bassa, the Parete del Cimitero

and, having reached the locality of Trescolli, the grandiose rampart that includes the Setriana pillars and the wall of San Rocchino. Every time I arrive by road at the junction of the Luciana locality on a clear autumn day, my heart leaps before such magnificence. The history of Tuscan sport climbing has been written and is still being written on these walls.

From here, the view sweeps over the Camaiore plain, the Versilia coastline to Lake Massaciuccoli, and behind it are the Apuan Alps with its southernmost offshoots of Monte Matanna and Prana. Lush forests frame these rocks that still after so many years never cease to amaze me. After years of searching for the most beautiful and difficult route to climb, I wondered if there could be an easy route on these walls that would take me to the top of the first Setriana pillar, allowing me to fully enjoy the beauty of these places. Together with Marcello, we combined the existing creations of various local climbers and added some new sections and variants that made this trip a pleasant climb within the reach of many. Some will say that there is nothing new in this climb and I partially agree but the original thing in my opinion is to combine all these rocks into a single climb 'Vista a Mare' and reach a summit after a pleasant day of climbing.

Access:

From Camaiore reach Casoli and continue on to Trescolli. At the junction for the locality "Luciana" park your car without obstructing the bus manoeuvring space. On foot By asphalted road, reach the locality Luciana and from here take a level path in the direction of the evident first pillar of Setriana. In about 15 minutes, you reach a downhill fork about 70 to 100 metres before easy bolted slabs at the base of the First Pillar of Setriana. Take the obvious path downhill through the forest to a cairn and then, following tracks still downhill, go right until you reach the base of the first pillar of the Abbacchiati ridge. (It is possible to skip the first pitch and reach the easy ridge directly via a tree-lined gully that leads to a fork).

Material: a 50m rope, lanyards for hourglasses and saplings, some friends may be useful

Report:

L1: (bolted by Stefano Sandrelli ) climb the small pillar on singular rock formed by glued boulders and exceptional limestone. 25m - 6a spit fix.

From the summit, descend 10m to a fork at the start of the Abbacchiati ridge (first climbed by Emanuele dati with friends).

L2: follow the articulated slab of super rock to the final ridge to be passed directly (easier to the right) 30m - 4° many hourglasses Stop in trees

L3/4 Follow the ridge of excellent rock with easy climbing, stopping on excellent terraces on trees or hourglasses.

The ridge becomes easier but is still pleasant and with about 100m of articulated terrain leads to the roof of a margin on the path leading to the Enel reservoir. Descend the path for two hairpin bends to the base of the easy slabs of the first Setriana pillar.

L5: Climb the rightmost bolted route (bolted by Luisa Siliani) and after 30 metres reach a comfortable terrace with a spit fix. traverse 15 metres to the right and reach the base of a prominence, stopping on an hourglass.

L6: climb directly above the belay and overcome two consecutive overhangs (pitch already equipped by strangers, replaced fixes and added ropes in hourglasses.) belay on a terrace on a fix with ring and hourglass. 20m - 5c

L7: Climb above the belay by traversing to the right and staying below the forest to reach the belay on a fix with a ring in a niche. 20m - 4°;hourglasses + shafts

L8traverse to the left to a piton, climb a vertical section with good holds (1 fix and hourglasses) ignore an old belay on the left and go to the right for ascents (hourglasses, small trees, 1 fix) until you reach the forest where you belay on trees. 35m - 5c

Transfer on foot for about 50m to the right to the base of a detached pillar (belay on trees)

L9: climb diagonally to the right up an exposed wall and then directly to the top of the terrace. 20m - 5c; several spit fixes. Belay on bolts with ring + hourglass

Traverse a few metres to the right and stop under the last prominence on an hourglass.

L10climb directly above the belay and over the beautiful final slab, which you tackle directly and reach the summit.

Note: some pitches or passages are not obligatory and are avoidable, but in our opinion, if climbed as described, it is one of the most beautiful easy routes in the Camaiore area.

Descent: continue along the ridge and descend to the fork, descend on the sea side bypassing the final prominence and via tracks in the forest descend to a path that leads to the margin and then to the Auto.

Good climbing,

Marcello and Roberto