Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, 'Lean Life

VITASNELLA

The proverb says: 'Neither from Venus nor from Mars, one neither arrives nor departs, nor does one begin art', and we, without thinking about it, started this route on a Tuesday this spring... that day an unidentified quarry vehicle kindly rubbed the side of my off-roader, causing considerable damage and consequent relief to my wallet. On the whole, however, the first day had not gone badly at all, and three beautiful new pitches had sprung up in the 'heart' of the wall's central face. Today, on a beautiful October day, we are here again and this time it is Tuesday! The goal is to free the finished route in two more days of 'work'. This time we rappel from above to avoid any more surprises and without a hitch we reach the base. With Fabri it was the first route we had opened together, and since I had convinced him to come to the Apuan Alps from Novara, I didn't want to disappoint him, so I opted for the east face of Monte Pesaro. As I mentioned above, we started in the centre of the wall just to the right of the attempt made by the Carrarini more than 20 years ago. The first pitch climbs a leaning slab in true "spalmo" style, and here more than muscles, you need excellent foot technique and steady nerves in the obligatory run-out from the last bolt to the belay! Two nice flights, one of which, because of the rope left behind my foot, with a rollover and consequent cracking/kicking. On the third attempt I managed to free climb going to the belay after 25 metres on the only step of the slab. The second pitch starts with a few not-so-easy metres protected by two bolts which prevent the partner from falling on his head and continues for another 30m on dreamy rock but all to be protected with friends. The third pitch traverses slightly to the right and goes up a crack all to be protected but of lesser difficulty. Here the marble and slabs end and the wall soars up the flint limestone. The next pitch is a mix of technique and strength and in crescendo leads to the belay with beautiful obligatory steps between the few bolts. Two more bolts above the belay to secure the ankles then friends in the holes and between the flint concretions until the last metres with another two bolts. We are now under the terminal overhangs and the penultimate pitch insinuates itself between them with elegant climbing which is not easy to read and with only two bolts leads to the last belay after 40 metres all to be gained. The last pitch is easier and in any case, with only one bolt, it is all to be protected, taking advantage of the experience gained on the previous pitches.

Lastly. when naming a route, you look for an anecdote or a characteristic that distinguishes it, but this time we didn't have any, so we named it after a well-known bottled mineral water that we had left on the wall, but which evokes a lifestyle that particularly distinguishes climbers...'VITASNELLA'.

Report:

Apuan Alps - Monte Pesaro

VITASNELLA

Ascent in 2015 between April and October

Fabrizio Fratagnoli and Roberto Vigiani

Development: 220 metres (7 L)

Difficulty : 7b+ (7b obligatory) - S3, R3

Material : One set of C4 from 0.5 to 2, one set of C3, one set of Alien from black to red or equivalent, possibly Nuts (not compulsory). 60m half ropes for the descent, quickdraws, even long ones, Kevlar.

20 bolts in the route plus the belays

Access: two possibilities

  1. from Carrara reach the Lorano marble basin (directions or ask for directions) leaving the car at the beginning of the marble quarry (private road) reach the house/workshop of the Lorano high quarry and at the next hairpin bend take the track passing through an old quarry that leads to the base of the evident wall visible long before ( about 1 hour of dusty road ).
  2. From Carrara to CampocecinaFrom the bend before the Soccorso Cave infirmary (parking space for one car), climb over the guardrail and descend the evident ridge that slopes down towards the wall (evident rusty metal cistern), follow it, skirting it a little to the right in a wood until, having returned to the edge of the wall, you will find an evident cairn and two fixes with a ring that indicate the first abseil (20/25 minutes descent, 40/45 ascent).

Of the two, the second is recommended because the abseils on the Baraka must be made anyway and you are spared the horrendous quarry road up and down.

Rappelling from the Baraka : climb a few metres up the ridge to the Baraka abseils, which are distinguished by two fixes with a ring (large cairn).

  • short abseil of 20m;
  •  abseil 30m off the route to a chain on the edge of the overhangs;
  • abseil 55m into the void, absolutely pass the fix under the overhang a few metres from the start or else remain in the void without the possibility of reaching the next belay
  • with two more abseils you reach the fixed ropes at the base

greetings and spit..

Vigio


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Roberto and Fabrizio

 

 

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