Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, Lorano Wall " La Baraka".
THE BARAKA
The Baraka (by R. Vigiani)
Difficulties L1:6b+, L2:6b+, L3:6b+, L4:6c, L5:6c, L6:6c+, L7:5c
Open from below, max. difficulty. 6c+, obbl. 6b (II/S2)
Fix Inox 10mm; 15 referrals; 2 ropes 55 m; Development 220m; Descent: on the way
In the Islamic world, 'La Bàraka' is a word that means 'Blessed by Allah' in our case it can be defined, with less devotion to the deities, as 'Blessed Luck'.
It is precisely this last definition of Bàraka that is most appropriate for the opening of the new route that I, together with Luisa, have traced on the face of Monte Pesaro in the Lorano valley above Carrara.
It is precisely this last definition of Bàraka that is most appropriate for the opening of the new route that I, together with Luisa, have traced on the face of Monte Pesaro in the Lorano valley above Carrara.
"Bàraka" because it takes luck to find a wall on the Apuane Alps that is still virgin and on it to trace a route that, although it seems very difficult to look at, has allowed us to climb it with difficulties that all in all were more than reasonable.
This year did not start off in the best of ways for me due to a rather serious finger injury that forced me to take a long break. During my convalescence period, my wandering around the Apuane Alps led me, thanks to a tip I got from the Tecchiaioli dell'Apian, (experts not only on Tecchiaioli but also on real walls!) to the base of this beautiful wall which, unfortunately, overlooks one of the largest marble basins in the Apuane Alps.
At first glance, the wall appeared to be a 'tough nut' and the first slightly leaning part of water-worked marble was overhung by an overhanging wall of flint limestone that promised very hard rock and assured difficulty. In its central part at the point where the marble descends further down, there is an attempt probably made by Carrara climbers but after about 20 metres, where the slab straightens out towards the vertical, it runs out! After an initial visual examination we chose what we thought was the most beautiful and easiest line to follow and without delay we attacked.
Luisa at the safety and I at the opening in two days, strictly from below, as is my style, we opened these seven fabulous pitches planting around 60 fixes.
To speed things up, I climbed the opening with the drill attached to the harness and many of the bolts I put in the climbing position. The bolting at the end of the job was rather stingy so, seeing that this will probably be the easiest route on the wall, we decided to add more bolts to make it safer and within reach of those who at least master 6b. The result is now available to everyone, the bolting is safe and well done and a few bolts we left a little to "conquer" so as not to wipe out all the excitement that climbing mulltiptch can give.
Unfortunately, as I said above, the wall is above the Lorano marble basin and if you go on weekdays (i.e. working days for the quarries) the noise of bulldozers and trucks is guaranteed. On public holidays (Sundays only) all is silent but looking over your shoulder you can't help but think how beautiful this valley would be without the havoc of the quarries!
Happy climbing to all,
Roberto Vigiani
Report
Access:
there are two ways to get to the base of the wall:
From Carrara following the signs for Miseglia and then for the Fantiscritti and Lorano marble basin. When you reach the beginning of the marble road leading to the upper Lorano valley, leave the car and continue on foot along the marble road for about four kilometres to the base of the evident wall (about 1 hour). On weekdays, you can get almost under the wall with an off-road vehicle, but you have to ask permission to go up and make sure at what time they close the bar at the beginning of the road so that you don't get stuck with your car until the next morning! (it happened to us!).
From Carrara towards Campocecinafrom the bend before the Cave Rescue infirmary (car park) descend the obvious ridge that slopes down towards the wall, follow it until you find an obvious cairn with the route sign and the first abseil (approx. 25mins). See report
The attack is reached via a fixed rope and the fixes clearly indicate the route. The pegging is all stainless steel, be careful that despite the clean-up there is certainly still some stone to be cleared. Helmet on your head and 55 metre ropes for the descent, the second and third abseils are off the route and quite impressive (self-locking knot recommended!) beware that on the third abseil just below the belay after a few metres there is a fix to be reached with a pendulum and to be sent absolutely....lest you remain in the void many metres from the wall! 15 quickdraws are required and the wall is east-facing (shade in spring - summer from 13/14 onwards).
Fifth shot
Sixth throw, opening
