Apuan Alps, Monzone Towers, 'Robespierre'.
Robespierre It is a route that we finished several years ago and which, I don't know for what precise reason, remained there for a long time with the promise that sooner or later we would fix it! Piero had started it with Antonio and after two and a half pitches they had run aground where the wall begins to overhang. Antonio later took up aikido and Piero, left alone, invited me to help him. In one day and with just a few bolts, we opened the last four pitches and then, given the quality of the route, we decided to add the necessary bolts to make it safer and usable for a greater number of people. Let's be clear, it's not a 'ferrata' and especially on the fifth pitch the distance of the protections will make those who don't master the 6b with bolts under their feet squirm.... LarcherVigiani Theorem: "The squeezing of holds is directly proportional to the distance of the protections!!!"
The route is really beautiful and is the only one opened on this structure apart from 'Apian' of which it shares 5 metres on the second pitch. As I said above, the bolting is safe and close and, where the bolts are further apart, there is no danger of dangerous falls (in my opinion!). The rock, after a 'craggy' first pitch, alternates between vertical pitches on flint cleats and vertical, overhanging walls of excellent limestone. The first repeaters will still find some dust and a few handholds still to be cleared....don't hold it against us, we did our best, the rain and the repetitions will do the rest. The advice I would give is to do it all, down to the last metre, because the very last pitch has truly incredible rock!
Report :
Towers of Monzone - The Baptistery (we gave this name to the structure since it is located near the Cathedral and the Bell Tower)!
Robespierre' Street
Antonio Marchetti; Piero Gianfranceschi; Roberto Vigiani
Development: 240 m
Diff. Max. 6c
Diff obbl. 6b
Material: 2 ropes of at least 50 m - 15 quickdraws
Descent: abseiling as shown in the sketch, going backwards along the 4° traverse to find the last two abseils.
Happy climbing to all
Robe..s..Pierre
- WALL SCREENING Download
