Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, "Allocchio-Bacchini".
Towers of Monzone - To the Bacchini eye (by R. Vigiani)
Sector: Pala dei Fiorentini
Height: 1251 m
Exposure: east
Rock: limestone
From the road leading to the village of Vinca, leave the car at the start of a cart track that crosses the river over a plank bridge. Follow the cart-track, taking care to spot a thin track that descends to the right (red markings) into the channel, which is always dry.
Cross the gully following the cairns and find the track that cuts a scree, then
with strenuous hairpin bends aim at the base of the wall, which is reached by a direct ascent into the forest. About 40′.
Monzone Towers - Jungland Shovel
Via 'ALLOCCHIO BACCHINI' dedicated to Sandro Trentarossi
opened by : Davide della Valle -Roberto Vigiani
Autumn 2001- development approx. 220 metres
maximum difficulty 7b
obligatory difficulty 7a
Technical Notes
The attack is reached in the same way as for the 'Jungland' route by following the dirt road from the bridge at the bottom of the valley to its end.cross the stream and via a steep track head for a scree slope at the base of the wall.following it to the right or left indifferently through steep woodland you
reaches the attack (30/40 min.)
The first pitch, 6b+ traverses a series of dihedrines with washed-out rock and cuts across the second Jungland pitch by continuing straight ahead. The piton is always spaced out but it is possible to add stoppers and friends.
The second pitch, 6b traverses a large dihedral also visible from below with pegs
spaced out but with the possibility of integrating with even very large friends.
The third pitch, 7a is one of the most beautiful on the Monzone Towers and runs along a 50 metre wall
truly exciting. The bolting is close in the first few bolts so as not to hit the ledge and thins out as you climb; very difficult to integrate the existing protections (8 bolts for 50 metres).
The fourth pitch, 7a climbs diagonally left to below the obvious black roof. The bolting is
spaced out and has a nice obligatory section to the belay. Here you will find compliments from the first climbers, but to end on a high note, the last pitch awaits you.
The last pitch, 7b is a fabulous black col with continuity climbing and the hardest passage well protected.
In order to descend more comfortably, it is better to rappel from the moulinette belay and keep
firmly to the rope.
The rock on this route is always of excellent quality and will always improve with repetitions.
The descent is always by abseiling the route with 50-metre ropes.
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