Alpia Apuane, Monte Corchia, 'CorchiAmare'.

CORCHIaMARE

After Apericorchia on the north-west side, ideal for the summer months, here is Corchiamare on the south-west side, ideal for the winter months. Last December, before the 'monsoons' began, I went with Marcello to repeat Gino Bonuccelli's 'Via degli Argonauti' at Pilastro Vitelli, above Levigliani, on the south-west face of Corchia. Turning under the wall, a beautiful placconata attracted my attention, so much so that I was amazed why no one had ever considered it. The line was not exactly obvious but the quality of the rock, especially in the first 50 metres, seemed promising. Curiosity led us a few days later to open the first two pitches on a warm, sunny winter day. Unfortunately, the weather soon turned sour and January and February of this year were some of the wettest in the last 50 years. As soon as the sun returned, we were back at Corchia and in perfect weather we finished the route in a day. The result is a pleasant route on rock that I would describe as good to excellent by Corchia standards. The bolting is with fixes that are never too close together and are supplemented in several places with friends. As usual, the rock at the opening was typical of Corchia with several ledges and poised slabs that required considerable cleaning, which is why a few repetitions will be necessary before it is optimally cleaned.

Access:

From Levigliani, take the road to Passo Croce and at the second hairpin bend, take a dirt road on the right and private which leads to some houses in the woods and ends after about 1 km, park 200 m before the end of the road on the left-hand side in a small clearing (caution: only a couple of cars can park there). Descend into the chestnut grove below and follow the path to the stream bed, clearly visible from the road. Cross it and climb up on the right-hand side (in the direction of travel) the usually dry stream of white marble blocks descending from the wall. Reach a large boulder where the gully divides and here take the right-hand branch (the one on the left leads to the Parsifal and Argonauts attack) going up it on the left side to the base of the wall. Follow it upwards to the left and you will soon reach the attack, the first spit being evident on the right of the plateau.(40min)

Report:

CORCHIaMARE

Opened by Marcello Puliga and Roberto Vigiani in March 2014

Development 150m

Difficulty max. 6c (6b+ obligatory) - RS2

Material: NDA, 70 metre rope - 10/12 quickdraws, some of which are long - sets of C3 or similar and C4 up to 0.75

L1 climb the beautiful plaque with technical moves, stopping after 35 m in a niche. 5 fixes to be integrated with hourglasses and friends (6a +)

L2: from the belay, ascend to the right and then directly with technical moves up to a lung, which at first glance is not very reassuring but is in fact well attached. Climb directly over it and diagonally right over more supported terrain to reach the belay on a nice terrace. 40m, 6 fixes to be integrated with friends. (6a +)

L3 Climb up from the belay to the right with athletic movements and overcome the first vertical section, continue along a leaning but somewhat lichenous slab to the belay. 35m, 5/6 bolts to be integrated with friends. (6a/b)

L4 Climb above the belay and go left, conquering the final wall with strong continuity climbing on a vertical wall with clear notches. Extend the quickdraws well for rope glide, spaced bolts and some barely visible from below. 35m, 8 bolts no possibility of integration (6c - 6b+ obligatory)

Descent doubling up on the route.