Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Sasso Rosso Wall, 'There is always a reason'.

In the course of life there are people who do many things and others who waste time thinking of putting them off until later - there are those who have a 'fire' inside them that burns and never stands still and those who like to laze around. We don't know who is happier but one thing is certain... in everything we do 'there is always a reason'.

In our case, we are climbers and I think that when one is a true climber, one will remain a climber for life, no matter the difficulties that come his way, the passion burns within him and therefore he will continue to climb as long as his strength allows.

There are rock climbers, ice climbers, sport climbers and mountaineers but all are united by one common denominator: Climbing

The most creative part of this magic word is in my opinion the search for new routes. Although in our parts it is increasingly difficult to find walls that still offer the possibility of new routes, the experienced eye can read into the folds of the rock and as if by magic can see what others cannot.

On the Sassorosso face I had already climbed "C'è poco da ridere" several years ago, again with Luisa, a route which counts few repeats due to its "Wild" character, few pitons to protect with friends and nuts and rock which is not always perfect. Accomplice to this hot summer, we returned to Sassorosso in search of some fresh air given its north-west exposure and relatively higher altitude. The left-hand side of the wall is already covered by two modern routes with fixes but I wanted to climb in the most traditional way possible. The fixes are a safety feature but the sparing use of them also leaves room for a lot of creativity in the positioning of the quick protections that give that extra pinch of salt that makes the dish more appetising.

I could have put in slotted pitons instead of the few fixes I put in but I did it by choice and for two reasons....there is always a reason!

the first, in my opinion, is that both the piton and the fix are always iron embedded in the rock and while the former lasts longer and is safer, the latter lasts less and needs periodic checks.

the second, on the other hand, is a question of price; a mere 2 euros for the fix against a good 10 euros for the crack piton is not insignificant... I have relatives in the Genoa area and it is well known that the Genoese are quite thrifty, not to say stingy!)

I already know that some will smile at these statements but this is my opinion and as is normal everyone thinks they are right and makes their own reasons.... If you don't like it go and repeat other routes that have the characteristics you prefer...the world is full of them

Happy climbing to all

Vigio

Notes:

"there is always a reason why" is an open wall route with few fixed protections and belays equipped with fixes. It requires the route leader to have a good command of the obligatory grade and the ability to place fast protections. In general, one protects oneself well with the material recommended in the report despite this some passages remain obligatory on free climbing.

The route was opened during the day and then repeated to clear some unstable boulders, in any case be careful that we definitely missed something. the rock is good to excellent and has some lichen in some sections which is uncomfortable for the feet.

The exposure is north-west so it remains in the shade almost all day and is ideal in summer.

Report:

attack about 50m to the right of 'the usual unknowns' near a slab supported with an hourglass lanyard a few metres from the ground.

L1: climb more or less directly up the slab, aiming for the only fix of the pitch clearly visible from the base. Climb over it and with beautiful passages on a vertical wall with holes reach the belay.

L2: climb above the belay up the diagonal crack to its end. exit to the left along an articulated wall climb a vertical wall move to the right and then climb an athletic overhang that leads to easier ground to the belay.

L3: slightly to the right, aiming for the clearly visible fix from the belay, go past it and continue on easier ground to below a small wall with an obvious jammed lanyard. (left as a marker, possibility to add nut). Go over it with a nice passage and over easier ground to reach the comfortable belay.

L4: via diagonal slab to the left (fix) until reaching the cracked pillar. Climb the crack until almost its end and then exit to the left and cross another overhang.

Traverse slightly to the left onto a small terrace and reach the second fix of the pitch with a nice obligatory pitch. Continue up the vertical but well gripped wall with decreasing difficulty to the belay

L5: from the belay slightly to the left, then along an articulated slab with a fixed lanyard in the hourglass. easily reach the steep summit wood, which must be climbed for another 20m or so until it becomes easy.

Going up and to the left, there is a track that leads back to the car park near the football pitch in 5 minutes.