Apuan Alps, Monte Corchia, Vitelli Pillar, 'Viva la Castagna'.

Here is another route on the Vitelli Pillar on the south-west of Corchia. I had started it with Marcello in the autumn at chestnut time and finished it today with Luisa on a beautiful spring day. Five pitches on the typical Corchia marble which, as usual, required a lot of cleaning but in the end turned out to be quite interesting and fun. I unclimbed as much as seemed dangerous but I can't guarantee that I didn't miss something, so watch out for the first repetitions... "handle with care!". Essential rigging to supplement with nuts and friends!

REPORT:

Apuan Alps - Monte Corchia - Vitelli Pillar

Approach: it is the same as the 'Corchiamare' route (see relay on the site). the route attacks about 70 metres down on a nice slab with an obvious bolt at its end about 15 metres from the ground.

"LONG LIVE THE CHESTNUT

Roberto Vigiani -Marcello Puliga- Luisa Siliani 2014/5

Development 160 metres - 5 lengths

Difficulty: RS2 - max 6b+ (0bbl. 6b)

Material: a set of microfriends (recommended Alien black to red)

a series of C4 from 0.5 to 1

small nuts and lanyards-

double rope or single 80 (with the 70, doubles are to the centimetre)

Descent: abseiling on the route with the last belay for direct abseiling off the route.

L1: Climb up a nice slab, protecting yourself with some friends until you reach the first bolt, then overhang the grassy ledge and climb up the small pillar above with easy climbing to the belay. (30mt. 5c) -2 bolts+ friends

L2 : directly above the belay slightly to the left until tipping over onto a grassy terrace tackle the difficult bolted slab to the left of a 'sarcophagus' which is best not to stress! (it is big but seems stable!). (35mt. 6b+) - 6 bolts + friends

L3 : climb a few metres above the belay and traverse left over the roof, continue directly over an overhang and the next slab to the belay. (35mt. 6b) 4 bolts + friends

L4 : directly above the belay over easier ground to the belay below the final dihedral (30m 5c) 5 bolts + friends

L5 : traverse easily to the left and climb a small notched wall leading to the dihedral. Climb up the dihedral with elegant climbing and at its summit climb over the overhang that closes it, climb the next small pillar to the belay. (30 m. 6b) 4 bolts + friends

Good climbing

Roberto Vigiani


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