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Petit Jorasses – the Bonatti-Mazeaud route

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Dates2 days

An incredible setting with exceptional rock and predominantly physical climbing, a constant succession of
of slabs and dihedrals, constantly searching for the weakest points on the south-east face of the Petites Jorasses, with
a crescendo of difficulty and beauty that culminates in the ascent of the enormous dihedral that characterises the
wall.
In fact, also known as the “Friendship Road”, it was opened in 1962, just one year after
some time has passed since the terrible incident (the Freney tragedy)

  • Vacation Style Holiday Type
    Alpinism and multipitch routes
  • Activity Level Expert
    8/8
All about the Petit Jorasses – via Bonatti Mazeaud.

ED- / VIII
Development:
470 m
Departure point:
Lavachey
Starting price:
1,642 m
Attachment height:
3,100 m
Key points:
Gervasutti Bivouac
Summit elevation:
3,550 m
Approach:
1 hour from the camp
Climbing time:
7am
Descent time:
45 minutes at the camp
Exhibition:
East
Rock type:
Granite

The tour package inclusions and exclusions at a glance
What is included in this tour?Items that are included in the cost of tour price.
  • accompaniment by the mountain guide
  • use of common material
  • insurance in case of recovery by helicopter.
What is not included in this tour?Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.
  • half-board at the mountain hut
  • packed lunch
  • transfer by car
  • ski lifts
  • expenses of the Guide, to be divided among the participants
  1. 1 day 4 July 2026

    Departure on Saturday 4th at 6:00 am; the meeting point is the park-and-ride car park at the Versilia motorway junction.
    – Arrival in Lavachey, Val Ferret
    – Preparing equipment and ascent to the Gervasutti Bivouac. Ascent time: 3½ hours
    – On arrival, prepare your own dinner

  2. 2 day 5 July 2026

    Sunday 5
    – Early start and breakfast on your own
    – A descent on ice, and after a 45-minute approach we’ll be at the start of the climb
    At the end of the route, we head back to Lavachey and return to Tuscany.

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high-altitude mountaineering equipment

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