Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto 'Fiumi di Parole' (Rivers of Words)

Via opened with only mobile protections, cracked pitons and hourglasses that exploits the narrow, still virgin space on the east face of the Procinto between the Buscaglia and Menestrella routes.The first 20 metres and the first part of the last pitch trace the Ratti Cavallo, for the rest the route is completely autonomous and is carried out on an open wall with excellent rock and athletic and satisfying climbing. In a second phase, it was decided to replace a few pitons with bolts, place several fixed hourglasses and equip the belays with fixes and abseil rings to facilitate repetitions. It is advisable and in some sections indispensable to have a series of Camalots up to 3 to supplement the fixed protections and dampen some 'airy obligatory'Small anecdote about the name: In 1998 on the East side of the Procinto I opened "i Jalisse", dedicating it to the musical group that won the Sanremo festival at the time, sure that everyone would soon forget. This year, after 25 years, I returned to the East Procinto with the idea that perhaps there was still virgin space to make a new route, and seeing that a lot of time and "words" had passed since I opened "i Jalisse" I decided to name it after their success at the time, "FIUMI DI PAROLE" (RIVERS OF WORDS). Vigio

REPORT:

Nailers: Roberto Vigiani-Cristian del Checcolo-Enrico Tomasin

opening date: July 2023

Prima rotpunkt: first ascenders

Difficulties: max 6c+ Obligatory 6b+ Development m 170

Material70mt single rope - 1 complete set Camalot C4 up to 3# - 4/5 kevlar rings for hourglasses

Access : Reach the circular ledge (BELT) at the base of the east face and attack just to the left of the water source using the first 20 metres of the old Ratti-Cavallo route

Development :

1° pitch: attack a few metres to the left of the spring and with athletic climbing protected by hourglasses, pitons and 2 bolts reach the first belay. 20 m - 6b+

2° pitch: traverse to the right to a bolt and follow the hourglasses up to the key-pitch protected by two bolts continue over a well gripped overhang protected by hourglasses to the belay 30 m - 6c+ , (possibility of integrating with friends some obligatory).

3°pitch: directly above the belay on a beautiful vertical slab which with good movements leads around a corner to the right and again on a slab to the belay on a comfortable terrace. 30 m - 6b (possibility to supplement with friends some obligatory).

4° pitch: by vertical wall above the belay and then slightly left following the cords in the hourglasses last 10m easy to be careful and with some grass disturbing the climbing 6a - 30m

5° pitch: climb a small terrace to the right and ascend a delicate slab with two nearby bolts to avoid falling to the ground, continue more easily to the belay on a comfortable terrace (essential to supplement with friends) 25 m - 6a

6° pitch: climb above the belay and follow the ropes up to the overhang, follow the beautiful crack above and over the overhanging wall equipped with hourglasses overhang on the slab to the belay to the right of the last section of "Angels and Demons" 30 m - 6b/c (useful friends to integrate fixed protections)

Notes: Descent with a 70 m single rope from belay to belay. From the second belay you reach the ground with a 35 m double rope.

Have fun, Roberto - Cristian - Enrico