Apuan Alps, Torri di Monzone, 'Casa Vianello'.

Torri di Monzone: Casa Vianello (by RobertoVigiani)

Report , April 2003

development 250 m.

first ascent: Piero Gianfranceschi (Raimondo Vianello!), Fabrizio Fratagnoli,

Alfredo Gattai, Roberto Vigiani

material needed15 quickdraws -2 50 m ropes.

difficulty: S1- II - max. 6c.

ApproachThe new street is located on the tower of the Cathedral (that of 'Notre dame de Monzon' and starts just to the left of the latter).

History and openingFor the sake of the record, it must be said that the route was an old project started by 'strangers' and then abandoned after one pitch.

About three years ago Piero Gianfranceschi took up the project from a modern perspective (spit) and, first with Fabrizio Fratagnoli, then with Alfredo Gattaiclimbed the first three and a half pitches in several days.

After this interlude, the project remained unfinished, with the ropes fixed in place, until this year when Piero was joined by Roberto Vigiani.

On one opening day, we climbed the remaining three and a half pitches, and on two other 'work' days, we added the necessary bolts to make the bolting uniform with the already open (i.e. close) part.

The route is on good rock, however it is good to use a helmet and be careful as there is still some rock to be cleared (this will happen with repeats).

The bolting on the entire route is close and there are no sections with potentially dangerous long flights.

The last pitch is best done in moulinette and the first two doubles from the penultimate belay are off the route (see sketch).

On the descent, it is necessary to bolt a few bolts to reach the belays.

The route was opened from below and the original attack started further to the left of the current first pitch joining the first belay.

In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful routes in the Towers and will definitely become a classic.

The route has already been repeated by Davide Della Valle e Almo Conti that confirmed its beauty...

April, 2003