Apuan Alps, Monte Campaccio, 'Philadelphia... fresh to spread!
Mount Campaccio - Apuan Alps - Massa PHILADELPHIA... fresh to spread!New route opened from below in August 2007 by Luisa Siliani e Roberto Vigiani Maximum difficulty : 6a+, Obligatory difficulty : 5c/6a Stainless steel fasteners with rappelling chain at the belays, , Development 175 metres
Material required: two 50m half ropes or 70m single ropes (abseils prepared except that from S1, 40m), 12 quickdraws, helmet .
NOTESA beautiful route on a good quality marble slab with abundant bolting and, as the name implies, really footy.
The wall goes in the shade towards the two (in summer) and if in the end you are still not satisfied, you can also combine the other two routes opened further to the left by Fiorentini Innocenti, Morandini and Mannini, slightly easier but worth a visit.
Accesssee the report made by Fiorentini. Having climbed the basal ravine, attack further to the right than Trazioni for a very easy slab with a cairn at the base and a carved arrow.(visible bolts)
L1, 2b : climb a very easy slab for 40 metres until you come to a belay on a spit with a ring.
L2, 4b : continue easily above the belay (carved arrow) and via beautiful rock reach the belay (30m)
L3, 6a+ : directly above the belay then slightly to the left over a difficult slab and again with nice technical passages to the belay. (35m).
L4, 6a above the belay tackle a difficult passage and continue with good sustained and technical climbing ( 25 m )
L5, 6a Move slightly to the right to win a small plate and with beautiful, continuous climbing take you below the last, more vertical prominence.(30 m ).
L6, 6a win a vertical wall on the right with technical movements and more easily reach the final chain (15 m).
Descent : N.B. advisable to abseil from S6 to S5 in a moulinette and from there it is possible to abseil with a 70 m single rope doing watch out for the rope ends!
From S1 (the one with only one ringed fix!) to descend, it is advisable to follow the ledge to the left, ascend briefly and via easy rocks return to the base. (Ometti).
