Sardinia, Punta Giradili, 'Partenia'.

Parthenia

From a text message from Alice:

"If it is beautiful and celestial, call it by a divine name, be courageous and baptise it as you would never have thought, bind it forever to a wish that only a few will understand, but that will remain in the heart of everyone, like the nostalgia for the "Joy".... that everyone yearns for but hardly ever possesses for more than the fleeting moment....on the summit, on the wall, upside down or upside down, but always in the solitude of the search. Dedicating it to those who know how to search and how to find will already be a splendid beginning. As an advertisement used to say, not everything has to be understandable and coherent, passion is often not, like choirs and solos "

With these words from someone who does not know anything about climbing, one understands that the ultimate goal of the existence of the human being, whether 'ordinary' or 'climber' is always that search for 'Happiness' that we all wish was eternal. On the Giradili, PartheniaThis is the third route I have opened and I think I would climb it again a thousand times. Parthenia is to date the easiest route to climb this wall set in the Gulf of Orosei and even if it were not new, the rock is perfect. Some would call it Verdonian rock, but this foreign reference does not really fit, I would rather say the opposite and coined the term 'sardinian rock', a cross between Sardinian and titanic. The only 'advantage' of always being a reference term for the French Canyon is that it is on the continent and that it has been frequented alpinistically for more years.

The view from the upper part of the route over the cave Pintada and on the south-west routes is breathtaking, the generous bolting and moderate difficulty will make this route a classic that will fill many people's hearts with joy.

Have fun!

Report:

PARTHENIA

Opened by Roberto Vigiani and Luisa Siliani

12/13 October 2009

Development 220 m + 30 m transfer to terrace

Max. difficulty : 6b+ ( obligatory 6a )

Commitment : S2-II

Material: nailing 10 mm stainless steel fix with chains at the belays

Useful kevlar for hourglasses and saplings

80 rope (in case of rappelling) and 15 quickdraws

AccessFrom Baunei go up to the Golgo plateau along an asphalt road for about 2.5 km, then take the dirt road on the right for Monte Ginirco and after another 500 m take the downhill fork to the right signposted Ginirco. Follow the dirt road for 2.4 km first downhill and then uphill, shortly after the second hairpin bend turn right and park 50 metres before the gate of the Deuspiggius sheepfold. Walk into the sheepfold by opening and closing the gate, follow the road keeping to the right until 50m before the lowest stable under the rocks, a track on the right leads to a gate in the fence, go through it and close it again. At this point you are on the Cengia Giradili ledge, follow it downhill for about 20 minutes until you come to another small gate, go through it and continue for about 70 metres. Just before a characteristic passage under a large boulder, go up to the left to the base of the wall (cairn).

Report: The first three pitches ascend a 90-metre forepart over exceptionally good slabs. You come out on a small ridge that leads to a wide terrace. Follow the suspended terrace and go to its right-hand end to stop on a tree with a fixed rope. From here descend for a few metres easily and climb diagonally right (fixed rope on small tree) around a small spur to the belay with chain (20m).

From the belay, climb up steps (bolts and small trees) until you reach the base of the pillar bordering the Grotta Pintada on the left, follow it with very satisfying climbing to the summit.

DescentGo up diagonally to the left following the cairns until you reach the summit ridge where you will see the slightly faded blue signs of "Selvaggio blu" (Wild Blue). Follow them carefully and a hinted path leads back to the dirt road just above the Deuspiggius sheepfold car park where you left your car. In case you lose the path, aim for the clearly visible dirt road and by goat tracks reach it at the most convenient point, descend it until you return to the car.