Muzzerone, Parete Striata, 'Tramontana'

MUZZERONE - 'TRAMONTANA' Street

By ROBERTO VIGIANI

First Ascent : Luisa Siliani - Roberto Vigiani - January 2005

Development : 180 m + 70 m Max. difficulty : 6b (6a obligatory)

Material required 12 quickdraws, lanyards for rigging the belays, one set of nuts and one set of friends.

Report of the new routeIn these days of January, when the cold is raging and the ideal places to climb are reduced to a few walls sheltered from the icy north winds, Muzzerone remains a micro-world where the landscape, the sea and the climate combine perfectly for our needs.

It was on these walls that I took my first steps in climbing and after many years I always gladly return, especially on clear winter 'Tramontana' days, to climb on these sunny rocks. The striated wall with its 200m difference in height is the local big wall and its inauguration dates back to 1982 with the first ascent of the now classic 'let him who wants to be happy be happy'. on the Bunker Pillar. Just to the right of it, in the past few days I have opened a new route with Luisa Siliani that deserves to become a classic due to its beauty and variety of climbing.

Access: The route attacks about 50 m to the left of Supernova and is reached via the path and the classic ferrata used to access the Parete Striata.

Go over the attack of Supernova and, following the cable that also leads to the attack of the Bunker Pillar, stop shortly before at a belay formed by a stainless steel spit fix and a resinated bolt with chain ring (we will write down the name as soon as possible).

To climb the route, it is necessary to have a set of friends and one set of nuts with you because some sections that are easily protected with them are not bolted with bolts and it is necessary to supplement them.

All of the difficult sections are well bolted and the route has been completely cleared of bushes and loose boulders (there is still some earth that will be cleared with the first substantial rain), despite this the beginning of the third pitch has a section of 'conglomerate' rock that needs attention and will require several repetitions to become perfectly cleared (close bolts).

The last two pitches take advantage of the bolts placed by Franceschini & C. on the original exit of the Bunker pillar.

Reportattack along a small plate with a crack to be protected with friends climb up the edge to the right of it (spit behind the edge) until you enter the evident dihedral to be followed to the belay (50m) 6b. Climb the slab above the belay up to a large pine tree, traverse to the left and climb up a small spur until you are a few metres from the second belay of the Bunker Pillar (possible deviation) traverse horizontally to the right (watch the rock) to a comfortable terrace where you belay.(40m) 6a.

Exit to the right of the terrace and directly climb the overhang above of conglomerate rock (be careful!) with closely spaced bolts, reach a small plate with a delicate little passage and gain the belay via an oblique dihedral to the right(40m) 6b. Move into the dihedral on the right and climb it with good climbing until its end. Exit onto the slab on the right and follow it on exceptional rock. Enter the dihedral again and at its end exit to the right over an overhang and then easily up to the belay(.50 m) 6a+.

Traverse horizontally to the left easily to the belay next to the Bunker. (20m ) 3.

Climb above the belay following the old bolts and diagonally reach the exit of the Bunker. (50m ) 5c