Apuan Alps, Monte Procinto, 'Robetta da Poco'.

Monte Procinto, North Wall, 'Little Stuff', by Roberto Vigiani, 24\8\2012

Mt 110, trad style ascent and clean

Max diff: 6c

Material used: nuts, fiends, hourglass lanyards

Chere are walls that have been frequented for a very long time and so many routes have been set on them that it seems impossible to come up with something new again.

Une of these is the north face of the Procinto, on which many historical and modern routes wind their way, in some cases overlapping and intersecting, creating a veritable spider's web. Nails, cords in hourglasses, fixes and resins confuse even the most assiduous frequenters of these walls.

In One day in this hot August I decide that there is space in between, between Olivolà and Capanna-Ceragioli, to climb independently. So as not to contribute to the confusion I decide to do everything trad without even using pitons. In this way I won't alter anything on the wall and whoever goes to repeat this route will find the same conditions that I found during the ascent.

Nhe seighth part of the first pitch in two places I exploited two cords that are probably part of the hut from the east.

Nella top I found the space by climbing to the left of the Innominata using a few metres of an old route of mine ("You can") now obliterated by the new pitons, and then straight on for a nice, difficult overhang to protect just to the left of the last pitch of the antinomial with a nice 6c obligatory section.



Back to list of reports

 

en_GB
1