Apuan Alps, Monte Pesaro, 'Bayonetta in Canna'.

Bayonet in barrel

Here I am... with this route I close 10 years of 'work' since I opened Baraka, it seems like yesterday and yet it has gone by like a flash. I still have a project I started years ago with Davide Benacci on the far left, which I will perhaps complete in the future if my will and health assist me.

Apart from the devastation surrounding this wall, the rock and the aesthetics of these lines are unequalled in the Apuane Alps. "Baionetta in canna" respects the quality of its previous sisters and the name makes it clear how it should be tackled... as an overall effort it is somewhere between Maktub and Vitasnella, a little more difficult than the former and a little easier than the latter.

Same opening style: essential bolting with bolts and extensive use of friends and nuts. Adequate level and skill in placing protections are necessary to safely repeat this route. Like Maktub on the first two pitches some bushes disturb the climbing but the quality of the rock is always excellent, the upper part, on the other hand, first overcomes a red wall furrowed by cracks with exceptional climbing and then an overhanging and athletic black crack.

'BAYONET IN THE BARREL'

Apuan Alps - Monte Pesaro

opened by Roberto Vigiani and Luisa Siliani between 2015 and 2016

development : 230m

max. difficulty: 7a/b (diff. ob. 6c/7a)

material: 1 series of C4 up to 3;1 series of Alien or X4;medium small nuts and a C3 series.

Access: see Maktub's reports on toscoclimb.it

Report:

from the end of the fixed rope attack just to the left of Maktub on a compact rock slab with a bolt about 20m from the attack (visible from below).

L1: Climb the slab to the bolt and face an obligatory step to a nice ridge that leads to a crack. Climb it to the belay where you traverse right to reach it. 30m- 6b (1 bolt)

L2: climb diagonally right up to the first bolt, tackle the cracked dihedral immediately above, go slightly left and then right again at the second bolt. Climb directly up more leaning dihedral to the belay. 35m- 6b (2 bolts)

L3: climb directly above the belay to below an overhang, go around it to the right and via a dihedral to the next belay 30m - 6b+ ( 3 fixes)

L4: climb over the overhang above the belay and tackle the exceptional red wall with only three bolts, supplementing with quick protections. 40m - 6c+ (3 bolts)

L5: Climb above the belay a slender crack to where it dies, with a slab move reach a small dihedral leading to a finger wall. With a difficult traverse to the left you reach the Baraka and belay under the overhanging black crack, building it with a bolt and a friend. 25m - 7a (5 bolts)

L6: climb the overhanging, physical crack and belay on a step below the terminal overhangs. 20m - 7a/b (1 bolt)

L7: traverse to the right for a few metres up a small crack and tackle the final overhang directly over beautiful concretions, belaying above it. 25m - 6b (1 bolt)

L8: climb the easy terminal slabs disturbed by some bushes in the direction of the spit visible from the belay. 25m - 5c (1 bolt)NOTE: WAIT TWO OR THREE DAYS AFTER HEAVY RAIN BECAUSE THE CRACK ON THE SIXTH PITCH MAY REMAIN WET.